Men in the trenches
This is a cool project I’m including here partly because the cover shot was slick enough to win recognition in Applied Arts magazine for photographer Angelina McCormick. I produced the fashion shoot and wrote the article that appeared in Ottawa Citizen Style magazine.
Timeless trench warfare
By Tony Martins / Photos by Angelina McCormick
Trends come and go, but the trench is here to stay. Originally designed for military use in the early 1900s, trench coats have denoted action, verve, and authority ever since. Few garments can match the trench for iconic stylistic impact. Think Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca or Robert Mitchum as a film noir private eye chewing up the scenery and leaving the femme fatale breathless.
Yes, a man in a trench coat is a man of action. Consider, for instance, the fashionable fellows pictured here cutting fine figures in contemporary trench coats sourced from around town. They look good—they look trench coat good—and were in fact selected for their ability to combine distinct personal style with creative professional derring-do that might leave us all just a little bit breathless.
The Undercover (and on-the-cover) Brothers
Lawrence Callendar, graphic designer by day and urbane fashion photographer by night, has a refined European sensibility. Though he does not consider himself to be overtly stylish, the art lover and frequent party-goer certainly has great taste in chapeaus. He usually sports a sharp fedora or paperboy cap to accent the slim-fitting, casual-but-contemporary silhouette that he favors.
What’s a trendsetter? “Someone who is willing to take risks … [who] not only has to be somewhat of an early adopter of new trends, but must also confidently wear these trends in a way that inspires others.”
Lawrence wears a black trench by Strellson from Hudson’s Bay Rideau Centre, $349.
He’s a self-employed multi-media designer, but Ashford Callendar is decidedly more rock star than Star Wars geek. He calls himself a “well-dressed hippie” and makes guitar-driven electronica music for fun. Think Lenny Kravitz without the annoying wrap-around shades.
What’s it take to be a trendsetter? “Ignore the devil’s advocate. By this I mean turning its volume way down, but not off. You still need to be rational, but it's important not to get hung up on the ‘fail’ part of creating new energy.”
Ashford wears a black trench by Strellson from Hudson’s Bay Rideau Centre, $325.
The Restaurateur
One of the dashingest dudes seen on a regular basis in the Byward Market, Stephen Flood owns and operates The Black Tomato restaurant, the location for our photo shoot. He keeps the place as sharp and stylish as he does his own appearance. While there’s no need to get too formal in his line of work, “I do dress with attention to the beauty of fabrics like cashmere in the winter and beautiful linens in the summer,” Flood says.
This man about town is particularly fond of accessories—so much so that he works part time at the upscale Wolf & Zed shoe store on Sussex Drive and is developing a line of unique animal-skin bags called Him & Her along with Jennifer Look-Hong.
Who qualifies as a trendsetter? “Someone who is aware of history, be it music history or art history or fashion history, as nothing is created in a vacuum, and who takes what we know in a new direction.”
Stephen wears a grey plaid trench by John Varvatos from Schad Blü on Sussex Drive, $1,495.00.
The Expressionist
An accomplished songwriter, pianist, and poet, Danniel Oickle knows how to make an impression, lyrically and fashionably. Along with two successful books of poetry in print, he is putting final touches on his second full-length album of lush, layered electronica called Blitzkrieg! due out this fall.
With David Bowie and Grace Jones for fashion icons, Oickle is anything but shy when it comes to style: “I like direct lines, softened by fabrics, and accentuated with sharp accessories,” says the musician. “I enjoy skirting the line of androgynous choices mixed with clearly masculine shapes and silhouettes.”
Who earns the title of trendsetter? “Someone who is aware of the ebbs and flows of culture but has the courage to decide for themselves what aspects to select and incorporate and when to simply defy the norms.”
Danniel wears a classic black trench that he purchased on a rainy day a few years back at Club Monaco, Rideau Centre, $350.00.
The Classic Bohemian
Mark Skinner is an art director in the graphic design industry who describes his work as “taking an idea and giving it a visual hierarchy that makes the message simple to understand yet aesthetically pleasing.” It’s no surprise, then, that Skinner appreciates the structured aesthetics in the Mackage trench he sports in our photos. He came across the coat at a photo shoot he was art directing few years ago. “It was a hybrid of classic trench and Russian military coat,” says Skinner. I had to have it. After securing a discount, it set me back $500—worth every penny.”
Skinner’s personal style is also a blend, one he describes as “luxury meets street, edgy but classic … Classic fit clothing with a bohemian mindset.”
How do you define “trendsetter”? “Not someone who shoves fashion down your throat because they're perceived as ‘somebody important.’ Once you become aware of other people's opinions then you start to lose your edge.”
Mark wears a Mackage trench coat from his own closet.
